Some Perspective on My Work at ACCESS

I know that I haven’t written too much about the actual work of my internship on this blog, but that doesn’t mean that I haven’t been doing a lot!  My internship has actually kept me quite busy, and has provided some incredible opportunities for practical learning, for personal growth, and for me to contribute to the broader mission of ACCESS Development Services.  ACCESS is an incredibly professional and well run nonprofit organization, currently working with the rural poor on a number of excellent projects. After spending some time learning about the projects, I was able to work with my supervisor to identify a number of specific ways that I can contribute my skills, perspective, and energy to support their work. One of the projects, The National Agriculture Innovation Project, has a blog you can check out here. You might notice how well-designed and easy to navigate it is – we’ve got a great webmaster. (It’s me.)

Within the NAIP project, ACCESS is forming a “Producer Company,” a legal entity owned and operated by poor producers, that helps them to develop business skills, find better markets for their produce, and thus improve their livelihoods.  I’ve been designing the business plan for that very Producer Company. My work has involved a lot of market research, designing surveys, analyzing data, doing financial planning, and so forth. I’ve had the opportunity to visit and spend a lot of time in the villages where the company will operate. I’ve attended farmer trainings and meetings, been invited into villagers homes, and even a village wedding (see my photo, right). I’ve been exposed to, and in a small way shared in, some of the struggles and joys of rural life in India.

Another example of the kind of work that I have been doing is writing case studies, basically narrative reports about the success of the programs at ACCESS. Two of the case studies are posted on the ACCESS blog (link above) if you’d like to see them. I recently learned that one of the studies, after being reviewed by the head office of ACCESS in New Delhi, was so well received that it will be circulated at a national conference! It’s exciting to know that my efforts are spreading awareness and advocating for ACCESS.

The last project that I am working on has more of an academic bent, as I will be presenting the work for credit toward my MBA at Assumption. I am researching and making recommendations about high-growth employment sectors and skill development programs in the Banswara district of south Rajasthan. The district faces significant unemployment and poverty so I am attempting to identify what kinds of investments can bring about change in that area. If my research is successful enough, it may assist ACCESS in planning poverty-reduction programs in the future.

Roaming through Rajputana

I just did a few quick calculations and figured out that in the four weeks from Sunday, January 31 to Saturday, February 20, I commuted over 2,000 miles – all of which was on the ground and almost exclusively within the state of Rajasthan.  In some two thousand odd miles, I have utilized 12 forms of conveyance; namely foot, bicycle, motorcycle, motor-scooter, auto-rickshaw, cycle-rickshaw, tempo, car, sleeper coach, government bus, train, and camel! Here’s a quick snapshot of some of the places I visited.

Chittaurgarh is a small city 80 miles from Udaipur, with one dominant characteristic: on a massive ridge towering over the town below are the remains of an ancient fort-city.  From A.D.  728 until it moved to Udaipur in the 16^th century (where it remains to this day), the kingdom of Mewar had its capital in Chittaurgarh.  I had an afternoon alone to wander around the ruins of temples and palaces and enjoy the view over the city below.

Highlights included getting shown a shortcut through the ruins by a local boy (and for ten minutes also my Hindi teacher), getting a lift on a villager’s motorcycle when I got lost, and exploring the Tower of Victory. On a base barely 12×12 feet, the Tower of Victory rises to 122 feet tall and is visible for miles around. Ornately decorated with marble carvings, it was built in 1440 and still stands today, stable enough at least for me to creep my way up the narrow staircase to the top.

Like Chittaurgarh, Jodhpur’s geography is dominated by a massive fort rising from a plateau over the city below. But unlike its neighbor-city 200 miles away, the Meherangarh Fort is just one of Jodhpur’s incredible features. Its competition includes a 347-room twentieth-century palace, a bustling and authentic village market around the old clock tower, and the greatest saffron lassi on earth. And also unlike that of Chittaurgarh, Jodhpur’s fort is just four centuries young, amazingly preserved and immaculately restored.

From a small tower atop the fort overlooking the blue-painted houses of the city below, I soaked up the scenery in silence for a few minutes before striking up a conversation with an American woman in maybe her mid-sixties.  Now on her third trip to India, but first time in Jodhpur, she told me a few of her favorite places from over 20 years of independent world travel.  When we parted ways, she said “Bye Greg – and keep traveling.” “Thanks,” I replied, “You too.” With a smirk she looked back and said, “Oh don’t you worry. I will.”

The fourth and final week was definitely one of the most exciting and memorable for me in India because Beth came to visit! It was also quite jam-packed for us; for the seven days from the moment I set out to meet her in Delhi until I arrived back in Udaipur, I moved at an average speed of 7 miles per hour! Cycle rickshaws around Old Delhi, 6 hours of waiting in the train station, sunrise at the Taj Mahal, camel safaris in Bikaner, sipping beer at sunset on sand dunes in the desert, playing with kids at a village school in Udaipur. Really a great week, and even if one week seems like a short time for a trip to India, we both agreed – it was worth every minute!

It scares me to think how much ground I might cover when my internship ends on March 12 and I actually start traveling around India!

Life Around Udaipur

“Pahal: The Beginning” Cycling Initiative

My host parents have recently started an initiative to raise awareness about the benefits of bicycle riding in Udaipur. Primarily focused on the negative effect of heavy traffic on the otherwise beautiful city (crowded streets, terrible pollution), they are also trying to remind people about the great health benefits, and negative effects on the global environment through fossil fuel use.  They have organized weekly bicycle rallies, as well as contacted numerous newspapers and television stations about the movement. I accompanied Jyotsna to a press conference before one of the rallies, and apparently I was on Indian television! (I also had my name in the paper…not that I really did anything though!) I have also been appointed unofficial webmaster of the blog for the initiative, which you can read here.

Republic Day

Republic Day in India commemorates the coming into force of the nation’s Constitution. The day is celebrated in many of the same ways as Independence Day and President’s Day are celebrated in the US – community programs, family events, school programs, etc. I attended one such school program at Upli Badi School, a small government school in a rural village area, followed by a family event at the Udaipur Rotary Club. I’ve attached a few photos of the kids’ presentations and the event!

Happy 2010 – Holiday Travel Update

In the interest of not having to write a cohesive narrative (and my readers’ diminutive attention spans, no offense) I’ve decided to keep this post, covering my holiday travels with my family, to a series of themed bullet points and photo collages.

Animal Related Highlights –

Attack of the Monkey Man – Stopped at a toll plaza, while our driver was conveniently inside doing paperwork, our car was descended upon by several leashed monkeys, including a momma who just happened to be breast feeding (see photo).  The monkeys’ owners then demanded baksheesh, and when we did not immediately pay up, started banging on our windows and pulling the (fortunately locked) door handles.  I know these guys were harmless – they do this routine many times daily to tourists – but let’s just say my Dad was just a little shaken up by the spectacle.

Elephant Ride – An enjoyable twenty minute ride on one of over a hundred elephants in a massive procession up the wall of Jaipur’s Amer Fort. “Now give me my tip” the elephant driver politely demanded when we arrived at the top.

Tiger(less) Safari – Two beautiful “tiger” safaris from an electric, open-topped jeep, one in the late afternoon and one at sunrise. Absolutely stunning scenery; no cats but we did see a variety of other animals like jackal, sambar deer, antelope, many gorgeous birds including wild peacocks, and the severed head of a cow that wandered from a nearby village into tiger territory.

Andrew, the Snake Charmer – I know that they’re defanged, but they’re still fun to watch, especially after Andrew sat down and played music with them.

Attack of the Holy Bees – Fatehpur Sikri was, at one point, the capital of Akbar’s Mougal Empire.  Mystery surrounds why Akbar built –and deserted – this small town within a period of twenty years. One certainty remains though: the massive, gorgeous façade of the main mosque, at the top of an enormous staircase overlooking the city below, is absolutely swarming with bees.  And souvenir salesmen.

The Pile of Puppies at Lal Ghat – A family of brutally adorable street puppies at the dock on Lake Pichola near our hotel in Udaipur. All seven were subsequently named, visited often, and (perhaps after one too many New Years Eve cocktails, at 1:30 in the morning) hugged and coddled.

Food Related Highlights-

Breakfast Metropolitan Hotel – I arrived in Delhi on the early AM train, but the family’s flight didn’t get in until late that night. So with 16 hours to kill and no real other option, I reluctantly threw on a bathrobe and ordered room service: potatoes, paranthas, yogurt, coriander chutney, Indian pickle, banana lassi, a cup of coffee and a Bloody Mary.

Andrew’s Homemade Beer – Quite possibly the most relevant Christmas gift ever. Andrew imported (smuggled?) for me a holiday five-pack of his latest homemade brew.  The two Amber Ales were delicious – the three American Pale Ales are still bottle conditioning… should be ready soon, can’t wait.

Bread Alligator – I thought about putting this under the animals category.  Not quite sure why, but this little fellow popped up at hotels all over Rajasthan.

Christmas Dinner – Christmas Dinner is more memorable when the waiter brings four funky-smelling bottles of Kingfisher beer, each with the expiration date carefully scratched off on the label.

Side trip for lunch in Bundi – We stopped for lunch during a long drive to Udaipur across Rajasthan in a sleepy little town called Bundi.  At the base of a mountain situated around a lake, Bundi was a great respite from the pressure and chaos of the typical tourist-track. We enjoyed some delicious home-cooked Indian food; in fact, they never even took our order. They just brought us what they had ready in the kitchen, served it family style, and when we finished, brought more!

Rajasthani Daal Bati – Watching my family eat this typical Indian dish with their hands was quite a treat. Messy for them, funny for me.

Home Cooked Food – My worlds collided when my host family met my birth family, but things went really well and we had a great time.  The Sclama’s joined the Dodia’s for lunch at their home, and after two weeks of hotel food, it was great to have some of Jyotsna’s home-cooking again!

Miscellaneous Cultural Notes

Raj Palace Hotel – This award winning heritage hotel in Jaipur is absolutely gorgeous, meticulous, perfect.  Christmas Eve on the lawn was great, especially when they literally trumpeted and announced our name when we arrived for dinner… even though we were the only ones there at that point. Then they almost burned the place down with misfired-fireworks.

The Taj Mahal – There’s no denying it, this place deserves the reputation it has. Incredible, stunning, and serene.  We were there for sunset and it was truly beautiful….the translucent marble just absorbs and radiates the hues of the setting sun.

Derailed and Mangled Train Next to the Highway– This is NOT what a foreigner planning to live and travel in India for 7 months wants his parents to see on the side of the road (see photo).

Bassi Fort Palace – Rajasthan is full of heritage hotels, basically mansions of former princely states rendered powerless when India got its sovereignty in 1947. Some are dilapidated, some are incredible. We found one roughly midway along that spectrum, in the small town of Bassi (at the last minute, due to a cancelled train reservation). Run by the nineteenth generation of family owners; photos of tiger hunts lined the walls, huge rooms decorated with authentic artifacts; sat by the firepit outside in the courtyard sipping cocktails….all for less than I paid for my room at the Howard Johnson in Kentucky last July.

Also Noteworthy – Mom dressed in a Sari. …Spending 4 hours on Christmas Day in a rug factory at Mom’s behest… spending New Years Day in the ER when Mom scratched her cornea (she’s ok now)… hmm, these all seem to involve Mom….

Lastly, Failed Experiments in Perspective Photography:

Upli Badi Library

Cast of Characters:

Okumara, the retired Japaneseschool teacher, activist, benefactor.

Jyotsna, the principal of Government Primary School of Upli Badi.

Lislot, the world-traveling German octogenarian, currently finishing up her nineteenth Indian tour.

Koju, the beer-loving Buddhist monk.

Laxmi, the disabled Udaipurian, once mistaken as a beggar by Roger Moore when he was in Udaipur filming 007:Octopussy in 1983; twenty-five years later still keeps correspondence with the British actor. Seems to know everyone in town.

Dr. Gupta, Director of Advent Institute of Management Science, Udaipur.

John, the six and a half foot tall Australian agriculture specialist.

Rita and Bramila, the activist Indian/NewYorker sisters, currently working on a greening the schools initiative in Udaipur.

Bhargav, the Sarangi player.

Greg, the American MBA student, local NGO volunteer.

________________________________________________

Scene 1: Government Primary School, Upli Badi, Udaipur.

Inauguration ceremony of the school’s new library.  Despite the fact that it’s Sunday and school is not in session, there are 50-plus students sitting quietly in rows on the floor, because their principal requested they come in today.  Though the school has a new library building, not a single government administrator is present; Jyotsna has raised the money and community support for the project without any government help.

All of the adults and students are gathered in one of the school’s four classrooms. The ceremonial wreath is laid, and incense is lit, at the shrine from which hang two flags: Indian and Japanese. Okumara begins to explain his story to the crowd of 5-15 year-old students and community supporters. His words are translated by his Indian friend, but after 20 years, she knows his story well enough to tell it without him. While visiting India years ago, he suffered a heart attack; strangers in Udaipur took care of him until his health was restored and he could return home. Struck by their kindness, he has returned every year since to try and repay the community that saved his life. Over the last few years, he has vowed to raise money to build the only library in the village of Upli Badi, a village that a decade ago had a literacy of 5 (people, that is, not percent), and just last year saw its first ever high school graduate.

Scene 2: Lakeview Rooftop Restaurant

Dinner to celebrate the library inauguration.  Lislot is telling me unbelievable stories from over 20 years of solo world travel. Like back in the seventies when her friend convinced her to visit Easter Island, and after arrival they were informed that their return flight -the only plane from Easter Island, which normally runs every four days – would not be able to leave for four months. “It’s actually pretty difficult to get bored on Easter Island,” she confesses, “so I wouldn’t have minded so much. But they were able to make repairs to the runway and we left after just 15 days.” Or last year, when she was on a tour bus going through the Hawaiian tropics. The oldest one on the bus by far, she drew a lot of attention. After telling the group of vibrant young fifty-somethings she was next headed to Japan, one responded, “Oh so you’re going to Japan tomorrow?” “No,” she responded, “Tomorrow I’m taking a helicopter ride over the Islands.”

Everyone is in good spirits at the celebration dinner. Fortunately, Kujo, the Buddhist monk, is there to refill everyone’s beer glass as soon as it reaches the half-empty mark (or is that half-full?). I lean in and overhear a conversation between Okumara and Joytsna.  “I’m old,” the long-retired Japanese school teacher said. “I don’t know what else I will have time to do on this Earth. But I helped to build this library. Today, then, is the climax of my life.”

Scene 3: Advent Institute of Management Science

After our meeting at the Library Inauguration, Dr. Gupta has invited me to visit their school. Advent Institute of Management Science and Technology is a residential undergraduate and MBA management school set just outside the city, in a picturesque country side surrounded by the Aravali Hills.  “Just to see the school, interact with some of our students.” “Should I prepare anything?” “No, no. This will just be a very informal conversation.” The jeep pulls up outside my house; five students have arrived to pick me up to bring me out to Advent Institute.

After a leisurely walk around the campus and through a few classrooms, I am invited to come into the dormitory where the MBAs live. Walking down the hall, I notice quite a crowd is now following me. I am invited into a lounge, where there are about forty-two chairs; forty are facing forward, two chairs at the front of the room facing the group. They insist of course, that I sit at the front. The room fills up. Waiting in silence, with a half smile, I am unsure of what comes next.  Eventually, one of the students steps up to the podium. “My dear friends: welcome and thank you for coming this evening. Today we are very happy to have a special guest speaker, Mr. Greg. Mr. Greg graduated from Boston College in the United States in 2007 before pursuing his MBA from…”  “Just an informal conversation,” I think to myself.

Scene 4: Rita and Bramila’s Flat

“And then we come back to the tonic,” Bhargav says, as he finishes a raga played masterfully on the sarangi. He’s sitting on the floor, in front of eight or ten of us, explaining the nuances of his instrument and the structure of Indian classical music. I arrived late, but before I got there someone had let it slip that I know a few tunes on the guitar. “Oh there just happens to be a guitar right behind you, Greg. Come play for us.” So pretty soon I’ve joined Bhargav at his stage on the floor in front of the group. “Do you know any Simon and Garfunkel?” I am asked. “Or maybe Bob Dylan? Crosby Stills and Nash?” What decade is this? I think to myself. Pretty soon though, Bhargav is improvising classical Indian lines while I play the chord changes and sing Johnny Cash’s “I Still Miss Someone.” John takes out his blues harp and joins in; most of the others are dancing.

Delhi, Ajmer, and Pushkar

“No people whose word for ‘yesterday’ is the same as their word for ‘tomorrow’ can be said to have a firm grip on time.” –Salman Rushdie in Midnight’s Children

That’s my attempt to use humor to shift the blame and divert attention from the fact that I haven’t posted in a month. It’s cultural! In reality it’s my fault of course; a mix between genuine busyness and that feeling that when you let something go for a while, it’s too much to finally take on, so you continue to put it off.  A lot has happened; in fact, my time in India has almost doubled since my last post, and I’m one third of the way through my internship (yikes).

Getting past the seven week mark was like getting over “the hump” for me (that’s pun-based foreshadowing, a literary device that I just invented; edit that Mr. Gold-Medal-Creative-Writing-Prize-Winner). Week seven was marked by nine days away from Udaipur, FSD’s midterm retreat, and my first bout of unserious-yet-incapacitating food poisoning. But I must say that the tainted chutney wasn’t the only thing about Delhi that left a bad taste in my mouth – the unbreathable air, immense distances between sights, and impassable gridlock all take away from the charm of this historic metropolis. Don’t get me wrong, there were some redeeming experiences: the Qtab Minar, a beautiful archeological site built up by a number of Delhi’s Muslim rulers; “Piccadelhi” Restaurant, a Tube-themed eatery with moderately-priced pitchers; and India Gate, which is quite…well, tall.  One consistent positive in Delhi was the incredible hospitality of Amitabh, his wife, and their two adorable kids. It’s no fun being bed-and-bathroom stricken, but it’s much more comfortable when you’re in the home of such welcoming and accommodating hosts.

Of course though, I enjoyed the actual reason for my visit to Delhi: The Microfinance India Summit, perhaps the premier venue for the microfinance sector in the country.  This three-day conference at the (quite incredible) Taj Palace Hotel was a great chance to hear academics, practitioners, and policy-makers discuss a wide range of topics related to the development field, and to network a little with people from organizations around the world. And did you know that the Netherlands has a Princess? Of course you did; well I got to see Princess Maxima speak in person. Then, early Thursday morning, I bid a bittersweet farewell to India’s national capital territory and rode the rails to Ajmer.

Ajmer was just what I needed after the Big City: small Indian town, narrow winding streets, more cows than cars; just charming. The religious history of the place runs deep, so I was out of the hotel at 7:30am Friday morning to see the sites on foot.  Ajmer is home to the tomb of a revered Sunni Muslim Saint – Muinuddin Chisty – and the site itself marks a holy pilgrimage for his followers.  Aside from the architecture, which was built up by numerous subsequent Indian and world leaders (including a donation from Queen Mary of England), the fervent devotion of its many pilgrims was striking.  In the area around the tomb, which is adorned with gold and jewels, the complex also runs a charitable foundation with a school and food kitchen. And, they have staff members whose apparent task it is to orient confused-looking Americans traveling solo. Which is nice.

Winding twenty kilometers through the mountain pass from Ajmer to Pushkar on a packed government bus was an enjoyable experience (not the kind of bus where people sit on the roof, but a packed bus nonetheless). Though I made my way there alone, I met up with six other FSD interns and our Program Coordinator for our “midterm retreat.”  None of us were expecting the things that you normally associate with the word “retreat.” See, this was the week of the famous Pushkar Mela, India’s biggest – and most publicized – camel trading fair. What is an Indian festival like in one of Hinduism’s holiest cities, you ask? Not terribly unlike an American state fair actually; but instead of one Ferris wheel, they had six; instead of trading prize pigs, they trade camels; there are sideshow performers with leashed monkeys, snake charmers, acrobats, tight-rope-walking seven-year-olds, tug-of-war, and pilgrims bathing in the (this year, mostly dry) sacred Pushkar Lake.  Just like Timonium, Hon!

Pushkar was an remarkable juxtaposition between genuine Indian religious and cultural tradition, and thousands of camera-clicking foreigners (and the swarm of touts that accompanies, selling everything from souvenir sculptures to special “holy” flowers).  The city has undoubtedly been influenced by the influx of tourists, drawn for years by the reputation of the Mela.  But remarkably, it has maintained its character too. It’s as if the people of the city have accommodated to meet the demands of Western visitors who, ironically, are seeking a non-Western experience.  Mainstream western influences, though (chain stores, etc.) have stayed out entirely. I think that so much of India’s rich history and culture has been formed by outside groups drawn to its wonders: spices and silk, tigers and temples, even just the sights and smells of the camels. Each group that comes leaves bits of its own tradition and places new demands on the local economy, changing and reciprocally being changed. When I think of Pushkar like that, the apparent contradictions seem to make just a little more sense.

Arriving back in Udaipur Sunday night was a remarkable relief: familiar sites as we entered the city; a warm welcome from my host family; my own bed and bathroom; home-cooked food. For the first time in India, I think, I felt at home.

Diwali, the Festival of LIGHTS!

After returning from Mt. Abu, another short workweek was followed by the Diwali Holiday weekend.  Diwali is the most important Hindu festival, especially in this region and being five days long it’s hard to miss – people clean and repaint their houses, buy new clothes, adorn inside and outside with diyas (small oil candles), and set off firecrackers. So in keeping with tradition, I went to the barber for a shave and a haircut (not two bits, but pretty close to it) and helped to clean the house. Thursday night one of the other interns’ host parents invited us over for a pre-Diwali party, complete with a buffet dinner and a rooftop DJ with light up dance floor – I wouldn’t exactly classify this one as traditional Indian dance, but we had a blast.

Saturday, though, was the real thing.  By 5:30pm the sound of fireworks over the city was constant.  Everyone, everywhere – big bombs, little whistlers, sparklers, big explosive Fourth of July style, you name it. Pretty incredible to watch from the rooftop of my house which overlooks the city (I took the above picture from our roof); that is, until we noticed at a vacant lot a couple of hundred feet from the house was on fire! I don’t think I’m being unfair when I say that most people throw caution to the wind on Diwali (or perhaps it goes up in smoke?). So I wasn’t terribly surprised to see the fire, although a little worried. Fortunately the fire brigade was called and put it out without a problem before it could spread to any homes or the adjacent Mosque (see the picture below; the illuminated dome of the Mosque is visible in the upper right corner). I got the feeling this was pretty routine for them on this night; “It happens,” I was told.

Well things have calmed down a little by now, and I’ve been enjoying work this week.  I’ve been writing an application for a grant for the Nestlé “Creating Shared Value” prize, which is awarded to a project or innovation that improves the lives of farmers or rural communities. At ACCESS, we’ve chosen to apply for the prize for our “ginger” project. The project works to link poor, rural ginger farmers in the area together into a legal company so that they can pool their resources and gain better access to markets, thus improving their incomes and livelihoods. In addition to learning a lot about the ginger project, it’s good experience in writing a grant application. And of course if the application is successful, we can make big steps forward with the ginger project as well!

Business and Pleasure at Mt. Abu

Mt. Abu is Rajasthan’s “hill resort” town, nestled atop a plateau sitting at almost 3,000 feet. It’s proximity to Udaipur (about 3 hours by road) as well as to the neighboring state of Gujarat makes it a popular vacation spot for Indians and tourist alike.  Nevermind the numerous signs warning of, and roads closed due to, massive rockslides; the approach is absolutely stunning! It reminded me of Highway 1 in California, but more narrow, carved out of the side of a mountain, constantly ascending, and without speed limit! Instead of Pacific blue below, it’s sprawling green plains of the Indian countryside.  The city sits atop the mountains.  Not a bad place to spend four days!

It worked out well that the other FSD interns decided to visit Mt. Abu the same weekend that my office planned a retreat there. It worked out even better that the interns wanted to visit on Saturday and Sunday, and the retreat ran Monday and Tuesday. It gave me a chance to get acquainted to the small town and see some of the tourist attractions the first two days.  Saturday we saw the famous Delwara Jain Temples, a cluster of marble structures, relatively austere on the outside, but amazingly intricate marble carvings inside. We walked up to the top of Guru Shikhar to a Hindu temple sitting at the highest point in Rajasthan with spectacular views. In the evening the seven of us went to a place known as “Sunset Point,” expecting a relaxing, picturesque close to the day. Well apparently this place is pretty popular, because we got to watch the sunset with about 1,500 of our closest friends – followed by a 20 minute Indian/foreigner photo session afterwards at their urging. Sunday morning we went for a 3 hour guided wildlife trek through the mountains. Of course, the views were amazing, which made up for the lack of wildlife; there were no bears or panthers, but we did spot some monkeys (common), a buffalo (domesticated), and a python (wild!).

Sunday afternoon when the other interns headed home, I put up the three bucks to stay an additional night at the “budget” hotel, and met the staff from ACCESS Monday afternoon.  The retreat hotel (not three bucks!) was a little more comfortable and secluded, with an expansive and serene backyard garden where we had our meetings. We discussed many things, but one of the most useful sessions involved each team member reflecting on, and sharing as a group, their goals or visions for where ACCESS South Rajasthan will be in five years.  It was a great chance for me to get more acquainted with the organization and to get more comfortable with everyone on the staff (pictured left) – despite an often frustrating language barrier.  It was also a great chance to spend a few extra days in Rajasthan’s most famous resort town!

Moti Magri and First Full Workweek

After a relaxing three-day weekend (Oct 2-4), I finally completed my first five day work week in India.  The long weekend was slow but restful, and much-needed after the busyness of the previous seven days.  On Saturday after several hours of reading and relaxing around the house, I was feeling a bit restless and decided to go for a walk.  I set out around Fateh Sagar, a beautiful but soon-to-be-dry lake (due to a meager monsoon) near my house and discovered Moti Magri, or “Pearl Hill.”  I found the name to be pretty fitting, because this place was an absolute gem! A network of look-outs and rock gardens situated on top of a tree-covered hill, Moti Magri contains a number of memorials to a number of past heroes and rulers of the Mewar Empire (of which Udaipur was previously part). It was the perfect late-afternoon retreat, secluded and quite (rare in India!) with a beautiful view of the sun setting over the city.

During the following week at work – my first of five consecutive days – I made significant progress in developing the workplan for my internship. This included a meeting with my supervisor and FSD’s program director to help to give the plan more direction. Very briefly, I will be helping ACCESS develop a strategic plan, with a specific focus on their microfinance operations, an area that I feel will greatly benefit from the additional resources. Already, the whole office has made me feel quite accepted as a fellow team member rather than as an outside intern, and to this end I will also assist in ongoing projects and activities as the need arises. I am particularly excited about an opportunity at the end of this month: I’ll be attending the Microfinance India Summit, a three-day conference held in Delhi and attended by a number of practitioners and policy-makers – apparently including India’s Prime Minister, Manmohan Singh!

Weeks 2-3, The Non-Work Update

Outside of work, a lot has been going on over the last week as well. I’ve mentioned several times that it’s the holiday season, which means seemingly nonstop festivals, music, and celebrations.  Well the ten day celebration is over now, and the city actually seems a little…quiet.  Fortunately I got to experience it a little more before it ended – last Friday several other interns and I visited one of the “Garba” dances at a large resort, the Oriental Palace, on the outskirts of the city. A major event (and remember, they put this one for nine straight nights), it featured live Indian music (with pyrotechnics), food from around the world, and of course, participatory Garba dancing on a large field in front of the stage. Well after watching for a few minutes, several of us finally mustered up the courage (or foolishness?) to jump in! Several young children quickly became our tutors, instructing us (with a language barrier, remember) on the basics of the rhythmic Dandia stick dance. We may have stood out just a little amongst the beautiful, elaborately decorated traditional Rajasthani dresses and turbans, but everyone was exceptionally welcoming to us and we had a great time. After thoroughly exhausting ourselves from all of the dancing, I’m not too ashamed to admit, I went to the world food court and had pizza.

This past weekend, I made my first venture out of the city of Udaipur – indeed out of the state of Rajasthan! I travelled with my host family to the city of Ratlam, in Madhya Pradesh, for the engagement ceremony of one of their extended family members. In addition to experiencing Indian family life and tradition first hand, I also got to see a great deal of the countryside. Highlights include many small villages and temples, Asia’s second largest man-made lake (surrounded by temples and monkeys of course), several bands of itinerant nomad societies and camel caravans, and a world famous cactus garden!

One final note – when I say the holiday season is over, I’m not being entirely precise. Today is a national holiday for Gandhi’s birthday, and two weeks from today is Diwali, which is, I’m told, actually the most important festival of them all. Then starts wedding season…