I just did a few quick calculations and figured out that in the four weeks from Sunday, January 31 to Saturday, February 20, I commuted over 2,000 miles – all of which was on the ground and almost exclusively within the state of Rajasthan. In some two thousand odd miles, I have utilized 12 forms of conveyance; namely foot, bicycle, motorcycle, motor-scooter, auto-rickshaw, cycle-rickshaw, tempo, car, sleeper coach, government bus, train, and camel! Here’s a quick snapshot of some of the places I visited.
Chittaurgarh is a small city 80 miles from Udaipur, with one dominant characteristic: on a massive ridge towering over the town below are the remains of an ancient fort-city. From A.D. 728 until it moved to Udaipur in the 16th century (where it remains to this day), the kingdom of Mewar had its capital in Chittaurgarh. I had an afternoon alone to wander around the ruins of temples and palaces and enjoy the view over the city below.
Highlights included getting shown a shortcut through the ruins by a local boy (and for ten minutes also my Hindi teacher), getting a lift on a villager’s motorcycle when I got lost, and exploring the Tower of Victory. On a base barely 12×12 feet, the Tower of Victory rises to 122 feet tall and is visible for miles around. Ornately decorated with marble carvings, it was built in 1440 and still stands today, stable enough at least for me to creep my way up the narrow staircase to the top.
Like Chittaurgarh, Jodhpur’s geography is dominated by a massive fort rising from a plateau over the city below. But unlike its neighbor-city 200 miles away, the Meherangarh Fort is just one of Jodhpur’s incredible features. Its competition includes a 347-room twentieth-century palace, a bustling and authentic village market around the old clock tower, and the greatest saffron lassi on earth. And also unlike that of Chittaurgarh, Jodhpur’s fort is just four centuries young, amazingly preserved and immaculately restored.
From a small tower atop the fort overlooking the blue-painted houses of the city below, I soaked up the scenery in silence for a few minutes before striking up a conversation with an American woman in maybe her mid-sixties. Now on her third trip to India, but first time in Jodhpur, she told me a few of her favorite places from over 20 years of independent world travel. When we parted ways, she said “Bye Greg – and keep traveling.” “Thanks,” I replied, “You too.” With a smirk she looked back and said, “Oh don’t you worry. I will.”
The fourth and final week was definitely one of the most exciting and memorable for me in India because Beth came to visit! It was also quite jam-packed for us; for the seven days from the moment I set out to meet her in Delhi until I arrived back in Udaipur, I moved at an average speed of 7 miles per hour! Cycle rickshaws around Old Delhi, 6 hours of waiting in the train station, sunrise at the Taj Mahal, camel safaris in Bikaner, sipping beer at sunset on sand dunes in the desert, playing with kids at a village school in Udaipur. Really a great week, and even if one week seems like a short time for a trip to India, we both agreed – it was worth every minute!
It scares me to think how much ground I might cover when my internship ends on March 12 and I actually start traveling around India!
March 2, 2010 at 2:13 pm |
Sounds like you’re still enjoying every minute of your adventure! I love reading your posts…keep writing! XO